與皮膚接觸的清漆,用於戶外材料


1

我想"重新整理"一輛平衡自行車。

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根據constructor,其疊層體由

製成

Simply superply™. Nothing but hand-picked, grade a veneers bonded with the finest marine ply "WBP" glue (water & boil proof) for maximum weather resistance

不幸的是,五年的使用損壞了它(某些零件已磨損,並且與金屬零件接觸的部分生鏽了):

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我想對它進行打磨和上光(部分?),但是我不確定要使用哪種產品。清漆需要:

  1. 保護木材免受各種外部應力(灰塵,雨水,衝擊……)
  2. 無毒(兒童的皮膚會在其上摩擦),並能耐受汗水。

我本來打算在"潛在的急性健康影響"部分下使用safety data sheet州的" Cabot透明木材保護劑",

Skin contact: No known significant effects or critical hazards

它應該足夠堅固以供戶外使用。但是你覺得呢?

2

You could consider another option: don't refinish it at all. Depending on how damaged the existing finish it (you don't say or show) in most case light scuffs and dings are just part of the charm, and don't represent any problem with ability of the material to resist moisture.

That veneer is very stable, with very good natural water resistance. On top of that, it was probably finished with some sort of decent outdoor spray polyurethane. So, unless it has been treated with complete disregard, it'll be fine as-is.

You wouldn't want to leave this out in the elements permanently or seasonally, but the occasional ride through a sprinkler or being caught in the rain isn't going to harm it. But the assumption is that most of the time this bike is brought into a porch or garage.

Outdoor furniture has to be refinished regularly because it is left to the tender mercies of 2-3 seasons of weather, and hundreds of hours of UV light exposure. Unless this bike has had the same treatment, it's probably fine.

That all being said, if you want to refinish these pieces with most finishes, including the penetrating finish you mention, you will have to remove all of the previous finish.

  1. Take everything apart.
  2. Mask or remove the hardware. Some of those bearing surfaces might be screwed in, or be a really tight interference fit. However you do it, you want to get these as clean as possible and maybe even remove the rust.
  3. Using an appropriate remover, remove all the old finish completely.
  4. Repair the damage. This is not going to be easy, but you might have to get clever with epoxy and canoacrylate glue and clamping.
  5. Hand-sand to a smooth finish. The idea is to sand for comfort of the person using it, at least with the finish you have indicated you want to use. Penetrating finishes don't really require any surface prep, other than it being bare wood.
  6. Apply, re-apply the finish as directed.

Of course, all those decals will be removed, and the hardware and fit might not be very tight. In some cases you might even have to rebuild up some wood "bearing" surfaces with epoxy or a wood insert that is machined back to nominal size. As mentioned before, you are going to have to make sure the metal bearing surfaces don't spin where held in wood, and are nominally the right size to meet each-other.

A note on finishes:

There are pros and cons to using a penetrant finish vs. a sealing finish, like a harder exterior polyurethane (or varnish). The former is intended to be re-applied regularly, and is also intended to age and patina over time. A sealing finish will need to be refinished less often, and is intended to cure hard on the surface. Penetrating finishes need to be applied to clean, absolutely bare wood. Polys (and varnish type finishes) are slightly less fussy in this regard.

But the majority of the attention you will be spending on this project is removing the old finish, prepping the surface, and making sure the mechanical interfaces are nominal after years of use, exposure to the elements, finish removal, and surface prep. Try to stay away from the edges.

As for toxicity, pretty much any finish, once cured, is essentially non-toxic and completely safe. With penetrant finishes you have to make sure it isn't the same stuff that they use in pressure treated lumber, but they usually say that on the label. Those tend to be oil solvent based, as well.


1

Thanks a lot to jdv and Graphus for they precious answer / comments. I thought I would post as an answer a description of what I've done, in case somebody faces the same issue.

  1. Take everything apart,

  2. Clean with soapy water,

  3. Apply a mix of 1/2 vinegar, 1/2 water, to the parts that were rusted, let rest 10 minutes and scrub lightly, following this advice,

  4. Scrub with steel wool,

  5. Lightly sanding with fine paper, not removing all of the previous finish, but easing the damaged parts,

  6. Applied one coat of "Cabot Clear Wood Protector" uniformly,

  7. Let rest ~24 hours,

  8. Re-assemble.

I'm only at step 7, I'll probably post pictures once I'm done. I'm not completely satisfied with the rendering, but that should do.